@n32romeo
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Here is the section from the FAA AA-5 Type Certificate on Life Limited parts.
I don’t know if Australia has any different requirements.Service Life Limit Information with respect to service life limited parts on this Model is contained in the
applicable manufacturer’s service manual, “Model AA-5, AA-5A, AA-5B, AG-5B
Service Manual, ” Section 3-00, “Service Life Limited Components.” Service life limits
appearing in this manual may not be changed without FAA Engineering approval.
Service life limited parts must be retired in accordance with the following schedule:
Component Part Number Service Life (Hours)
Inboard Spar Assembly 5102310-503 12,000
Wing Spar Assembly 5201004-501 12,500
Wing Outboard Spar Assembly 5201189-501 12,500
Shoulder Bolt 901044-2 7,250 -
Roscoe just put out a video a few days ago on changing a spar on an AA-1. The process is the same on an AA-5. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9bFbHNijHg0
Now finding a replacement spar is the issue. No new spars are available. I had heard that True Flight was working on getting new ones made, but as far as I know that has not yet happened. Best bet would be to check with Fletchair for a used serviceable one. If you purchase a used one, make sure it has the time documented on it as it is a life limited part (11,500 hours I think?).
Good luck on this.
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The most common wing stands are made out of wood with a base that is probably 3′ wide by 7′ long (determined by the wing leanth to be supported), with six upright 2X6 posts (3 at each end). Between the posts strips of a strong material (old clean carpet is the most common material) is strung between the 2X6 uprights to form two slings at each end. The two wings are then set into the slings with the leading edge down. I have my Yankee wings sitting in such a stand now. Sorry I don’t have a picture handy.
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The delay unit is a separate module from the horn. The delay module was added to the AA-1 in the 1971 timeframe, the early ones did not have it.
I think any 12V Safe Flight buzzer should work. You might check with Fletchair or Yankee Aviation to see if they have any working buzzers.
The delay units have been dying and hard to find replacements. The one in my ’76 AA-1B is still working.
See attached drawing. #14 is the delay controller, #19 is the horn. -
Reminds me of an AA-1X that I saw many years ago painted similar to that. The side of the plane had a bit of nose art proclaiming it as an F4F “Hell Kitty”.
I think you summed it up about using 2″ numbers. What you might consider is leaving an area on the side where you could put 10″ temporary stick-on numbers.
Good luck with the paint job! That should be a fun project.
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Check with Fletchair for the rear canopy seal. It is a small P shaped seal (see picture).
Some people have put a strip of felt there in place of the factory seal on the inside of the rear canopy fairing, probably 1/4″ thick and 1″ wide could work.
By loosening all the rear canopy screws you should be able to close the rear gap some, but you want a seal there so you do not have metal to metal contact that would rub. -
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These are getting very rare. I assume you have already checked with the usual suspects (Fletchair, Yankee Aviation).
I have a couple of dead ones. I have not yet heard of a shop that can rebuild them. I tried taking one apart, but it is not a simple task.
On the other hand, the brushes are easy to change. Have you tried that yet?
There was a factory service kit to install a late model AA-5X flap motor, but that required lots of changes to fit it in there. The factory did this as they were running out of spares of the AA-1 flap motor.
Here is info on the Service Kit..
http://gpa.grumman-parts.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/SK-146.pdf -
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None of the STC’s list any specific performance numbers other then stating that it exceeds the original performance.
I have owned a 1976 AA-1B for over 40 years and in 1983 I installed a 0-320. With 150HP, a 58″ pitch Sensenich prop and no fairings (this was a stock Trainer), I see cruise up to 135MPH, but normally cruise at 120 – 125 to save fuel. I don’t have any aux fuel.
Takeoff and climb are great. At my home near sea-level airport the first turn-off is at about 1,000′, and I am normally off the ground in 600-700′ at gross on all except hot days.
ROC is in the 1,000fpm range, and I have flown up to 14,000′ still climbing at a couple hundred FPM.
I am building up a ’69 American Yankee that will have a HC 0-320, it will get all the speed fairings, and a 62″ pitch on the prop and I hopefully will be installing aux tanks (have the tanks, but need paperwork). I hope to see cruise speeds well over 150MPH with this plane when complete.
There are lots of variables with the 0-320 installation, there are 3 major STCs that most were done under and there are differences between them. Feel free to ping me if you need more information. -
Got the baffles trimmed on the side and the back. Next I need to fit the nose bowl to the cowl to do the front.
I have two nose bowls, one off of another early AA-1 or AA-1A that a neighbor gave me, and one from a ’77 AA-1C that I had intended to use. Turns out that the early production AA-1’s look to have been match drilled on the assembly line floor. Neither nose bowl holes will match up to the my AA-1 lower cowling. The AA-1C nose bowl I have is kinda close on the left side, but off on the right. The other early bowl is off all over the place.
The AA-1C bowl fits my ’76 AA-1B perfectly, which tells me Grumman fixed this production issue later on.
When I picked up the project from Roscoe and I had decided I was going to put a 0-320 in the Yankee, the square inlet AA-1C nose bowl might be needed for cooling. Since there was an AA-1C nose bowl available from Ken’s inventory I took it and I left the original nose bowl at Roscoe’s shop. Now with other improvements I am doing, several experts have told me the original nose bowl with the oval openings should be fine. Working with Matt (Shop Monkey), I think we have found the original nose bowl. But to be sure, I made a template from my lower cowl to match up with the holes of the nose bowl and mailed it to him. If that is the case I will have him ship it to me.
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