Protected: Man Of Spokane

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    • #8999
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      Too funny, I JUST dealt with this a few days ago. I had a digital pressure gauge and I couldn’t connect it to the valve. I kept trying and trying by the time I was done, I think I removed about 10lbs of pressure. I had to go to my nearest mechanic and get an old school manual pressure gauge, the type that is just a long tube with the white bar that pops out the bottom. It has a 45 degree tip on it.

      As for filling it, I just used a 45 degree tip on the end of an air compressor. It worked pretty good.

    • #8973
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      Look at the following video from Jim Bede, the guy that designed the Grumman line. Check out the video starting at 1:02:00 in (1hr02min).

      Jim Bede Speaks – 1985 – Grumman Style

      I’ll transpose it here for the benefit of all, because something tells me a lot of A&P’s working on our planes don’t know this and are getting it wrong and solving it with the wrong solution. I’m experiencing wheel shimmy right now and I need to get this to my A&P to figure out how to adjust it as Jim Bede describes in this video.

      “on the nose wheel shimmy… check one thing, when after it comes out of the airplane fuselage and turns and bends down, the shaft that is sticking down that the fork is swiviling on, that shaft should be 4 to 6 degrees sweeping backwards. Not 3 1/2, not 6 1/2. It can be 4, it can be 5, it can be 6 or anywhere in between. If you have it right on, 99% chance you’ll never get shimmy. If it something other than that, you have a 99% chance you will have shimmy. So, now tightening the nut up on the bottom is a good solution to what you now already have as a problem. If it isn’t doing that, I don’t know exactly the easy way to fix it. Maybe the mod people can come up with… all you gotta do is really change the way that angle is bent. You can’t just re-adjust the airplane or how it fits into the fuselage or anything like that…

      [audience asks a follow-up question, talks about heat treating to bend, etc.]

      All I’m tellin’ you is somebody somewhere down the line got it real clever and figured all this out one time and it does work and that’s what the original drawings calls out, that’s what it should have been. But when I look at something out there and it doesn’t look like it’s sweeping back. And uh, and one time on a BD-1 we made some changes up front and by golly I think it was sittin’ at 2 degrees and it shakes ya pretty good… The other solution is to tighten up the nut and put more friction and then the only difficulty you have then it’s a little harder to steer with because you’re fightin’ the friction with that. But if it’s 4 to 6 degree, it will be gone.”

    • #8896
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      Bump… Anyone? I also would like to know his status!

    • #8891
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      I did find this link a while back where someone compared an MT Prop to a Sensenich 63. The tables pretty well say it all. I’m including them here slightly modified because the archived post had messed up the formatting of the table making it hard to read.

      [edit: spoke too soon, the text got messed up again, uploading as an image.)

      http://www.matronics.com/digest/teamgrumman-list/Digest.TeamGrumman-List.2004-12-05.html

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    • #8889
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      I met a guy in Seattle that just had an engine rebuild, powerflow and also installed the MT Prop. He hasn’t been able to go WOT yet because his oil temp gauge says he’s bumping up against red line, but they are thinking it is a bad oil temp sender. I’m keeping in touch with him as I’m interested how his tiger performs once he can finally run full tilt. I’ll keep you posted as I learn more.

    • #8886
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      Nope, not mine in that video! That ain’t my plane. That one is N28683. Mine is N4783P.

    • #8877
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      Thanks! Yeah, it’s funny, I had been searching for planes for about a year and the night before the ad went up, I had officially decided to put aside my plane shopping for a bit and just rent and be happy. I was spending too much time on trade-a-plane, controller and barnstormer and needed my life back. I woke up the next morning to the barnstormer alert, saw it was only 200nm away from me and everything I was looking for and went into panic mode. I knew it would only last for a few hours before someone put a deposit down. I contacted the broker before he was even up and told him I wanted it and had a deposit ready. By the time I locked in my deposit a mere 2 hrs later, the broker already had calls from Hong Kong, Florida, California, all ready to put a deposit down.

      As everyone has said, the good Grumman’s go quick. I’m sure I’ll be rather active on the forums here for a bit with lots of newbie questions 😉

    • #8875
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      Update… I believe all is well. Local A&P emailed me the following after I described what I found and sent pics…

      “The vent tube is not damaged . It’s what’s called a whistle vent that keeps the breather tube from ever icing up and blowing your crankshaft seal.”

    • #8874
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      Thanks so much. My guess is this is a fairly common sized tube as it just connects to a rubber hose up on the top size. I’m thinking that my local shop will have something that will work just fine.

      I did notice I had more oil on the belly after 2hrs of a very bumpy flight. I’m still new to ownership, is it possible that higher turbulence would cause the oil to get tossed up to the top of the engine a bit more and then obviously out the vent? Like you, last compression test showed all 75+/80.

      I’m curious though, until I can get in with the local shop to replace it, do you guys think I could wrap it with something like the metallic duct-work tape? I can’t see any danger in this but I wasn’t about to do anything without some feedback.

    • #8872
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      More then you’ll ever want to know about aviation oil and additives can be found in this YouTube video -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibX8xJYxsSA It’s a fantastic webinar from Mike Busch done for EAA. He typically gets twice the TBO between engine overhauls (for a variety of reasons) so if you ask me, his webinars on how to take care of an engine are well worth anyone’s time. I think I’ve watched every one of his from leaning, advanced leaning, electronic instrumentation, EGT/CHT temps, “Big Data” computing of EI data (VERY interesting), oil analysis, and more.

      To save you the time from listening to the entire 2hr webinar (about an 1.5 hrs of PowerPoint, and and .5 hrs of questions,) *generally* he prefers the combo of Aeroshell W100/W80 and Camguard, changed every 50hrs or 4 months (if using regular oil filters.) He also recommends sending your oil off for analysis each time to develop a history that can be one of the tools to help catch internal issues before they bite you.

    • #15404
      Man Of Spokane
      Participant

      I installed Electroair and have been very pleased with it. I’ve been following a few others that have installed the SureFly and most seem pleased, though I have read of a tiny bit of issues here and there (can’t remember what all they were.)

      If I were to do it again, I’d probably still go with Electroair until the SureFly was on the market for longer to develop a bit more history.

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